Dragons (mating)! Scuba diving, Komodo National Park

We went in search of dragons and we found them! But first, we needed to get all set on the liveaboard and do some scuba diving.

We met at the Dive Komodo shop at 7am to start our liveaboard diving experience. The boat that was taking us out was actually a day boat with customers who would be out for just a day along with the folks who were going to be on our liveaboard. These folks became our family for next few days. Veerle, Oscar, and Sem were from the Netherlands and we would meet up with Paolo, Bea, and Sylvia from Italy and Coen who was also Dutch who were already on the boat. Additionally, there was an awesome crew of Indonesians working on the boat who we got to know. When we shared that we got scuba certified in the 1990s, it became official that we were clearly relics in this crew. 

Meeting at Dive Komodo 

Our group walking out to the ship

The plan was to sail in Komodo National Park for lots of diving and to do a short trek to see dragons. Komodo National Park started protection of the area in 1938. It is a volcanic landscape of contrasts between rugged hillsides of dry savanna, brilliant white and pink sandy beaches and postcard perfect blue waters over diverse coral reefs - it is known as one of the most best landscapes in all of Indonesia. Additionally, it is known for some of the best scuba diving in the whole world (as long as you can manage the currents which it is also known for). You have to be extra careful of the strong currents during the full moon, which of course was when we would be diving.

A very small island with a fishing village and solar panels (the first ones we have seen in Indonesia)

Lots of islands formed from volcanoes in Komodo National Park 

Fish farming 

Our first dive of the day was a "check dive" meaning that we could make sure that our equipment was ok and that the dive masters could also assess our diving skills. I'm not going to lie, I was pretty nervous after not having done it in over 15 years. Thankfully, I survived the ordeal which meant I only had to survive 11 more dives 😳

Our home for 3 days - Tatawa meaning "Big Smile"

On our way to the Tatawa

On the speedboat to the Tatawa 

A beautiful atoll surrounded by coral in Komodo National Park 

Our first lunch on the liveaboard 

After arriving on the liveaboard, Tatawa ("Big Smile"), we ate lunch and then were briefed on what would be our 2nd dive of the day. There was talk about currents, which made me a little panicky, especially when the dive masters talked about what to do if you get lost and end up in the "Big Blue". Ending up in the Big Blue is terrifying to me. Dan, Sem, and I were in the "Open Water" group with one dive master (Lando) and one almost dive master (Coen) so we were in good hands. Knowing that I lived through the first dive though made it so I was able to appreciate the beauty of the underwater world a little bit better. You have no idea how colorful and diverse it is until you see it.

After our second dive, we got in the speed boat and went to Rinca Island, one of the only places in the world where the Komodo Dragon lives in the wild. They are the largest species of lizard that exists today. They can weigh up to 150 pounds and can be up to 10 feet long. As a result of their size, they are at the top of the food chain and dominate the ecosystem in which they live - when they bite their prey, it has venom, tons of bacteria, and anticoagulant so it doesn't stand a chance of survival. It was super exciting to see them in the wild. They are impressive specimens. 

Our crew from the Tatawa

Something that was pretty cool is that we were able to see a pair mating (or as the Indonesians would say "boom boom"). Apparently, this is very rare to see as they generally mate in secluded places, but this was in the entrance of a small unused building. It was a fairly passive affair which I guess it has to be since it takes a whopping 6 hours!

Komodo dragons mating 

Mating looks like a relaxed affair 

Check out those claws!

Fossilized shells on Rinca Island 

Our liveaboard diving crew

A nice view on Rinca

Leaving Rinca by speed boat

Arriving back at the Tatawa around sunset 

Enjoying sunsets with this hunka hunka never gets old

Before dinner and after sunset, we prepared for a night dive and all of the safety things that go along with one. Communication under water is difficult and in the dark is even harder. It ended up being fun - we saw a bunch of weird sea slugs, sea cucumbers, lion fish, and more.

It was a Super Moon (Sturgeon Moon in the USA)

Dinner on the Tatawa 

Our cabin - it was hot 🥵

That was a full and exciting day. We settled into our cabin, but it was quite hot which impacted my sleep. Oh well - being on the liveaboard was worth a little lost sleep.